In the last episode, we introduced the basic concepts and some common functions of the watch. After the article was published, many watch fans left messages expressing their desire to learn more about more complex functions. Today, we will introduce you to some wristwatches. The complex “top matching” function on the table. Video explanation
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No.1 Perpetual Calendar The perpetual calendar function refers to the function of displaying the date, week, and month of the watch, and theoretically speaking, people do not need to adjust the time for 100 years.
The perpetual calendar can automatically adjust the size of the month (31 days or 30 days) and the 28 days or 29 days of February. To put it simply, this advanced and complex design comes from a mechanical memory function. The number sequence is repeated every 48 months to correspond to the leap year (every 4 years) cycle. Only in special non-leap year years does it need to be adjusted once, and the year closest to the present will have to wait until 2100! On the left is the Longines Concas quartz watch, and on the right is the Seiko solar watch. In addition to the expensive and complex mechanical perpetual calendar, some quartz watches or solar-powered watches also have a perpetual calendar function, and the price will be much cheaper. . In addition, there are also annual calendar watches and full calendar watches that have similar functions to the perpetual calendar watches. You can check our review of the first issue of the program.
No.2 Tourbillon Tourbillon was invented by Mr. Louis Breguet in 1795 and a patent was registered in 1801.
As you may know, there was no concept of a wrist watch a long time ago. At that time, people used pocket watches, but most of the time pocket watches were in an “upright” state. The vertical direction would be affected by the earth’s gravity, and gravity would affect the pocket watch. The swing speed of the parts causes the pocket watch to travel time error. The escapement mechanism that rotates on the right side is used to provide energy to the pendulum. To solve this problem, Mr. Louis Breguet invented the “tourbillon” device more than two hundred years ago. This device installs the escapement of the timepiece in a rotating frame. The frame usually rotates once a minute to offset the error caused by gravity and ensure that the timepiece is accurate. The modern tourbillon has more ornamental value and makes the watch mechanically beautiful. Nowadays, due to our habit of wearing watches and the improvement of watch technology, the demand for tourbillons is not as urgent as in the early pocket watch era, but the charm of modern tourbillon watches It hasn’t decreased, on the contrary, it has become more refined.
No.3 Minute repeater watch case side (pictured on the right) has a slider minute repeater function, which is considered to be one of the most complicated watch functions. One of the features is that there is a slider on the side of the case.
The appearance of the minute repeater timepiece can be traced back to the early days of mechanical timepieces. At that time, electricity was not yet popular. People invented the timepiece to make it easier to understand the specific time through the sound of the timepiece in the dark without lighting a candle. . “Timekeeping” is still easy to understand, so what does the “three questions” mean? Three questions refer to that the watch can emit three different sounds, referring to hours, quarters and minutes. So the question is again: which are the three voices? How to tell what time is it? These three sounds and their meanings are usually: the bass represents the hour, the high and low consonance represents the quarter of an hour (one quarter of an hour represents 15 minutes), and the high tone represents the minute. For example, if there are 2 lows, 3 highs and 14 highs, then the time is 2:59. (The calculation method of minutes is: 3X15+14) Self-test, you can hear the Patek Philippe minute repeater watch in the following video, what time is it reported?
No.4 The moon phase and retrograde moon phase watch have a very high appearance. The moon phase display function is also a kind of watch complication, but the practicality is not the focus of the moon phase watch, it is the ornamental (beauty).
The moon phase function can track the progress of the moon, including the different phases from the new moon, the first quarter, and the full moon to the last quarter. On the disc window of the moon phase table, there are generally two moons at the beginning of each month’s cycle. The moon starts to move from the window in a left-to-right direction. As this moon phase slowly disappears from the right, the second The moon will reappear from the left edge. Van Cleef & Arpels’ famous Lover’s Bridge watch uses a retrograde function. Girls represent the hour hand and boys represent the minute hand. The retrograde function will be separated immediately after meeting. It refers to the hour hand, minute hand, second hand or calendar hand of the watch (among which One or more), move along a certain scale, when it reaches the vertex, it will instantly jump back to the origin, and then start again.
No.5 Flyback Some watches will be marked with the words “FLYBACK” (flyback) flyback and retrograde, which sounds a bit similar, but these two functions are actually two different things.
Flyback used to be a watch function used by pilots. By pressing the chronograph reset button, the chronograph second hand can instantly reset to zero and start to re-time immediately. It is now used exclusively on chronographs. This program talks about many complicated functions of watches. I hope that everyone can have a preliminary understanding of these professional vocabulary. Of course, there are more to the complex functions of the watch. In future programs, we will bring you more knowledge to share! By the way, if you can hear the broadcast time of the Patek Philippe Minute Repeater, please share it with us in the comment area.